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Thursday, July 8, 2010
Orvieto, Italy

Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!Italic
A few hours drive north, past Rome, and we scale the heights to arrive atop the cliff in the beautiful town of Orvieto.
Aft
er dropping our luggage at Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini, (our room is beside a lovely terrace this time – I think Jill had this room a few years ago!) we walk to Antico Bucchero for lunch.
It just LOOKS different here, no more
bright colored façades, but somber stone.
And tastes different too – no more seafood, but farro (
spelt) risotto with asparagus, drizzled with grassy and peppery olive oil from a nearby village. A world of difference from the Amalfi Coast.
Kirk orders a favorite Tuscan dessert to share: Biscotti Vin Santo, and we tell the story of requesting it for dessert far northwest of here, in San Remo just before the French border, and receiving a scoffing scold “This is not Tuscany!”
Dipping lessons follow
and we all taste the crisp biscotti

(these filled with toasted hazelnuts
rather than almonds – delicious!)

soaked in the sweet golden dessert wine.




As we tour the town, pointing out ancient palazzos, towers, and monuments, snatches of a Bach cello suite draw us around corner after corner

and we find Peter, a New York cellist who spends his summers in favorite spots in Europe, playing his way across the continent.

Orvieto’s stellar sight is the majestic Duomo
(cathedral), a triptych towering high in colorful mosaic, sparkling gold, and intricate carving.

We’re missing those ocean breezes – it’s hot up here on the tufa plateau!
A cafe across the piazza is the perfe
ct spot to cool off with an Aperol Spritz and listen to tales of the Duomo.
Then Kirk takes Steve and Martha inside to see the wonderful carvings and mosaics, and Jacqueline takes me to a jewelry store where she had spied a beautiful ring as we wal
ked by earlier. She had seen one years ago in Capri, the shimmering blue stone reminding her of the surrounding sea, and although it wasn’t available there this year, here is just the perfect ring, in her much-loved town of Orvieto!
It is just gorgeous, and will be such a wonderful reminder of beautiful Italy.

Dinner this evening is a
multi- course feast in
the garden of Sette Consoli.

One after the other, the dishes delight –
and dessert is absolutely plate- scrapingly delicious!