
Let’s Go for a Walk!
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Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
Why not join us in Bath in November for the Mozartfest?
Where were you when the world changed with the spread of Covid-19? We were happily isolated on Spain’s glorious Costa Brava, perched in a tiny but perfectly equipped apartment on the 10th floor, overlooking the bay of Roses. With views like this, we were happy to quietly keep to ourselves, stepping out of the almost-deserted building daily to wander a lonely beach or a rocky path.
We’ve spent time previously on this beautiful coast closer to Barcelona, but this time we’re researching the area further northeast, almost to the French border, for an upcoming private tour…and we’ll include these enticing sights in our Wonders of Barcelona tour as well.
The flamboyant Surrealist artist Salvador Dali called the Costa Brava home for 50 years, and we’ve taken previous tour guests to the Dali museum in Figueres, which was so crowded that several of us quickly walked through, then sought out a cafe in town to relax with a drink! Our visit to Dali’s house-museum in Portlligat, a tiny hamlet on the next cove from lovely Cadaques, is a polar opposite, with only 8 guests allowed at a time. Inside and out, Dali’s quirky creativity is obvious – a polar bear in a salon?
Why not? Eggs on the terrace?
Why not?
Also obvious is his appreciation of a view – both outside, and in, where his bed is positioned
so that he was “the first person in Spain to see the sun rise” – via a precisely positioned mirror. He knew just what he wanted to see, and to convey with his inimitable art!
Days of exploring are followed by breathtaking sunsets from our little balcony, and perhaps a moonlight stroll to complete the day.
Cadaques, adjacent to Portlligat, is often called by Spaniards “the most beautiful village in Spain”, its whitewashed buildings clustered around a delightful cove.
Cobbled lanes lead to quiet paths along the water,
where we stroll before stopping for a sublime seaside lunch.
Heading west along Roses Bay one day, we pause at Sant Martí d’Empúries, a tiny walled village crowned by a stalwart church.
Flanked by a pine forest on one side, on the other spreads a long sandy beach,
with views back to Roses.
We fit in one more hike along Cala Montgo before catching the last United flight to the US from Barcelona – we know we’ll have two weeks of self-quarantine ahead of us so we’re enjoying this freedom and the beautiful views as much as we can! Our hiking guide pamphlet warns of steep cliffside paths, and we scramble upward for a while, look back at where we started,
and decide that the safer option would be to head back towards the flatter boulders, where we pause for a selfie to look back on
until we can return to the Mediterranean – when will that be?!?
May 2018 – Music and Markets Barcelona Tour
Montserrat, Spain
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
Why not join us on our newest tour in September – Bordeaux and Dordogne
Yesterday we explored along the sea, today we’re climbing high to Montserrat, home of Santa Maria de Montserrat, the spiritual heart of this region of Catalonia. By metro, train then cog rail we ascend to the bluest sky and clear air,
where Benedictine monks, of which there are still 150 today, founded an abbey in the 10th century.
We find that it’s not just any Sunday, but a celebration – the abbey is absolutely PACKED for Mother’s Day.
Standing room only – but well worth it for the pure voices of the world-famous boy’s choir.
And then the party begins – folk ensembles from around the region, in beautiful traditional dress, line up for the dances in the expansive plaza outside the church. We had hoped for something special up here today, but no online search let us know what we could expect – it’s just a delight!
Accompanied by a Catalan band, with that peculiar oboe-like woodwind, the shawm, the dancers twirl and sway in complicated patterns, their espadrilles softly padding through the steps. What a treat!
We descend in a different way from which we came up – soaring through the air in a little yellow bucket – you can see the next one up on the right. Much faster than the cog railway!
Each day unique, it’s been a wonderful week, polished off with a fine dinner.As usual, we enjoyed this Music and Markets Tour as much as our guests did!
May 2018 – Music and Markets Barcelona Tour
Tarragona & Barcelona, Spain
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
Why not join us on our newest tour in September – Bordeaux and Dordogne
About an hour west of Barcelona is Rome’s first outpost in the area, the city of Tarragona, so we head out from nearby França Station for a trip back in time to this Unesco World Heritage Site.
We approach the city right along the coast, waves nearly lapping at the train tracks, and as we walk up to the center from the station we get a great view of the Roman Ampitheatre.
Our preferred approach is along the Roman walls, entering near the archeological park entrance to take a look at the excellent Maquette of Roman Tarraco,
which gives a clear impression of what the city looked like centuries ago.
Walking through the city, we appreciate the traces of ancient Rome incorporated right in to daily life – a bit of a wall here, an impressive cathedral up the steps where the ancient temple was.
We even eat lunch in the shadow of Rome – in Les Voltes (The Vaults),
tucked right under the arches of the Circus in the middle of town.
Pilate, of Biblical notoriety, is said to have been born in Tarraco – his statue stands not far from exposed tiers of the Circus.
Another of Tarragona’s claims to fame is their expertise as Castellers, a Catalan tradition – giving them the name City of Human Towers.
Sure hope we can see it in person someday!
A watery musical extravaganza ends our day back in Barcelona as we join the crowds to take in the Magical Fountains of Montjuic, the lavish flow choreographed to snippets of music.
May 2018 – Music and Markets Barcelona Tour
Barcelona, Spain
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
Why not join us on our newest tour in September – Bordeaux and Dordogne
Montjuic rises near the sea, crowned with a fort, several sites for the 1992 Summer Olympics, and parks and museums, the most popular one filled with Joan Miró’s work….which was the impetus for our Barcelona Tour when in 2012 there was a special Miró exhibition at the National Gallery of Art in Washington. At the suggestion of the former Director of Music at the gallery, we put together a week full of art and music for a new Music and Markets tour – and liked it so much that we’ve continued to offer it!
Tracing Miró’s work from beginning to end, Fondation Miró is an open, airy, and well-designed space, welcoming individuals and groups of all ages. There have always been young school children there when we’ve visited, and it’s delightful to watch them discover the secrets and lessons within these colorful works with the help of an engaging young docent.
We soar through the air to our next destination, Barceloneta on the beach.
After a stroll along the sand, taking in art installations both permanent and transitory,
we find our reserved table at Can Majo to enjoy some fabulous seafood –
this chef is a genius of taste and presentation too!
It’s not far back to the hotel, and we all enjoy the walk after our deliciously filling meal.
More artistry awaits us beside a peaceful cloister in the chapel of Santa Anna in the Barri Gotic at an evening concert –
Ksenia Axelroud and Joan Benejam, the Barcelona Duo de Guitarra.
Spanish melodies of Albéniz, Granados and Soler fill the intimate space, before a rousing finale from Bizet’s Carmen.
Stopping for tapas at a couple of places on the way back to the hotel, we enjoy a final stroll through the Born, with Santa Maria del Mar’s belltower lighting our way.
May 2018 – Music and Markets Barcelona Tour
Barcelona, Spain
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
Why not join us on our newest tour in September – Bordeaux and Dordogne
Each day is unique and exciting around Barcelona – from Art Nouveau neighborhoods, gorgeous seaside, ground-breaking art such as Picasso and Miro, to today’s multi-layered Barri Gotic. Passing through bright and sunny Plaça de Sant Jaume, the administrative heart of both the city and the region, we’re enveloped in the warren of ancient streets of old town.
To the right of Sant Jaume is the cathedral, and before the crowds arrive we enjoy the peacefulness of the gothic cloister, with its 13 swans-a-swimming around the fountain.
Not far away is a trace of yet-older civilization, a cluster of elegant Roman columns incorporated right into an apartment block!
And here are the steps Columbus trod when he brought news of the New World to Queen Isabelle…
around the corner from my favorite courtyard – the gorgeous Archives of the Crown of Aragon, built in the 1500s.
Of course Music and Markets guests don’t want to miss Barcelona’s premier market, La Boqueria!
And neither does anyone else – it’s always jam-packed!
And overflowing with Spanish temptations from land
and sea.
Across the Ramblas, the main pedestrian walkway, narrow lanes are filled with more enticements – fulfill your flamenco dreams here,
or purchase a fragrant candle from the oldest shop in Barcelona – Cerería Subirà.
One of Barcelona’s don’t-miss venues is the magnificent Art Nouveau Palau de la Música Catalana,
under whose glorious stained glass ceiling we complete the day with some un-Catalan music, an evening of flamenco and opera.
Tastes and sights, smells and sounds, what a day full of Barcelona’s bounty!