Tuesday, April 5, 2017
The Riviera, France and Italy
Today’s garden day begins on that point of land we saw across Menton’s bay last evening. On a magnificent site perched above the sea on the Italian border, Hanbury Gardens were created in 1867 when Sir Thomas Hanbury bought this site, intending to acclimatize plants from around the world.
The entrance is at the top of the property, where we can instantly see the lush terraces tumbling to the sea – amazingly beautiful!
Could there be a better time of year to be here, with lush fragrant wisteria twining through the terraces and lacing pergolas as we descend? I think not! Slowly we amble down, passing colorful plantings, all the way to the stately home above the sea, where the terrace takes full advantage of the view. Now for the climb back up to street level – it was a loooong way down! Did anyone count the hundreds of stairs??
We’re invited to Villa Ormond in San Remo for lunch, and are met by town officials and a gaggle of reporters eager to interview attendees. After lunch the passionate head gardener shows off the many rare specimens in this park now open to the public.
Then we’re heading west, back along the coast to France, where La Serre de la Madone awaits us. Created between 1919 and 1939 by the renowned British landscape gardener Lawrence Johnstone, the rocky terraces of old farms must have been an intriguing challenge for the man who previously designed the glorious gardens of Hidcote Manor in the rolling countryside of the south of England. Each terrace here is different – a pond on one, geometric plantings on another, a pergola overlooking another, and by the wisteria draped house, a pond with throaty bullfrogs making themselves known. Truly lovely – the kind of place for spending peaceful hours – perhaps we’ll return and do so one day!
Eye-popping Menton welcomes us for dinner again, where the chef of Breijade Meridionale has prepared another floral-themed feast. Kirk becomes our wine steward for the evening, and these unusual hanging skewers….are soon aflame!