A Day in Marseille

by Anne Woodyard | Mar 9, 2016 | France, Marseille, Panier

Wednesday, February 10, 2016
Marseille, France

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Marseilles oldest quartier, the atmospheric Panier, is a section of the city we’ve long wanted to visit, and today we meet our friend Kim, who’s now living in this metropolis, and go exploring together. Rising up from the port, the narrow lanes begin their ascent near the Bar de Platane, where shabby chic takes over from newly renovated and restored.
That worn charm shows through every turn we take, from laundry tucked into a windowpane, to a purposefully faded façade. Rather like a manicured 3-day beard, this apparent age seems calculated – let’s paint these shutters so they look like they were painted 20 years ago!
Wandering up and down the steep lanes, we see a crisp and clean entry once in a while, but most places have that “charme de l’ancien” down pat. This quirky spot, with vines snaking on the door, is the HQ of the Bien Fêteurs – literally benefactors, but definitely a play on words – they are, indeed, the Party Hardiers!
Many of the streets are pedestrian only, and are often stair steps from one warren of colorful buildings to another – a lot of climbing up and down. Or you can take the Petit Train from the port, stopping at the main squares, such as Place de Lenche (named after a Corsican family who lived here ages ago), and up to  elegant Vielle Charité. Built between 1671 and 1749, it’s the jewel of the quartier, with an impressive three tiered cloister and a beautiful chapel with a pediment reflecting care for poor children, the original purpose of the facility, which is now a cultural center. A popular French soap opera, Plus Belle la Vie, has put Place du 13 Cantons on the tourist map. One of the prettiest squares in the quartier, its Bar des 13 Coins is one of the settings  for the show.
We’ve heard a lot about the new museums and renovation at the port, all part of when Marseilles was a European Capital of Culture in 2013, and that decaying area has indeed been cleaned up and modernized – with a hefty catwalk crossing from Fort St. Jean to MUCEM, the new museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisation.We’ve caught glimpses of Notre Dame de la Garde all day long, and there it is again, hovering over the city. We considered going up to see it today, but instead happily concur with Kim’s suggestion of relaxing in Lafayette Gourmet – that’s what happens when you hang out with a chef 😉
We actually abstained from the pastries, just sipping on a cup of coffee, since we want to find an early dinner before our evening entertainment begins. We know it’s unlikely that we’ll find a place serving dinner before 7, and sure enough, that’s the case as we walk to Hotel C2, a superbly renovated duo of townhomes that’s now a 5 star hotel. Our friend and neighbor, Marylène, is singing here tonight with her combo, Quai des Brunes (a play on words of a 1930s French film, chosen since the ladies perform the music of that era). I’ve enjoyed playing Brazilian music as Marylène sings for fun in their home, through the years we’ve known them, but this is the first time we’ll get to hear her group and we’re excited about that. We pause for a bite to eat in the elegant lobby, and once again enjoy a bottle of Jacques’ (Marylène’s husband) son’s wine – an excellent red, with our platters of charcuterie and cheese.
Under the modern chandeliers cascading down the center of the beautiful old stairway, the ladies are setting up…and as they begin to sing we look at the program – voices, piano, violin, and….claquettes? What’s that, we wonder? And we soon find out!
The lighting didn’t allow for very good video, but here’s a snippet more of their singing…before Marylène broke out the Carmen Miranda hat! What a fun day and evening! We catch the late bus back to Aix and walk home along the quiet streets, reflecting on a day of friends, tastes, sights and music – lovely!