by Anne Woodyard | Apr 6, 2020 | Aix en Provence, Ambiance d'Aix, France, France travel, Markets of Provence, provence, Saint Sauveur Cathedral
As we’ve guided our guests through the beautiful town of Aix en Provence for the past 17 years, we’ve pointed out the many niches,
filled with Madonnas and saints, on corners of buildings, explaining that “in medieval times these comforting icons were installed during the plague so that the quarantined residents, unable to attend mass, could instead pray to these figures that they could see from their windows”.
Did we ever imagine that, once again, the world would be confined to their homes as we are today? France is currently on a 15-day lockdown in a bid to halt the spread of the coronavirus pandemic.
We can see the cathedral bell tower from Ambiance d’Aix, our home in Aix en Provence – do you think that would “count” as a prayer niche?!
One of the things we love about our French home is the sound of those church bells. On Wednesday last week church bells rang out throughout France for 10 minutes, beginning at 7:30 pm, as an act of solidarity and hope, and people were encouraged to light candles in their windows at the same time.
In secularized France, I wonder if many now look out their windows to the Madonnas and pray?
Even if not, those peaceful Mother and Child statues
seem to bless the lively squares below (can you spy the figure on the corner?).
I think of this one as the market Madonna.
A rare snow draped the shoulders of this one a few years ago.
Just around the corner from our home is this unusual Black Madonna,
on the corner of “scrape your elbows” lane – a cobbled path so narrow you have to hold your arms against your body as you walk through.
Pray we will, that this virus will soon be conquered,
and the calm Madonnas can smile down on busy-once-again squares!
by Anne Woodyard | Jul 19, 2017 | Aix en Provence, Aix en Provence market, France, La Ciotat, Pavilion Vendome, Saint Sauveur Cathedral
July 2017
Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
Why not join us on our newest tour in September – Bordeaux and Dordogne
What’s new in Aix? The bell tower of the cathedral is now out of its scaffolding, pristine and gleaming in the summer sun. 
Under the dust of years, it was never apparent that the crown on top is a paler stone – now it’s clearly obvious!
The market is calling…and the most-photographed stall of all is as eye-poppingly gorgeous as always!
We’re here long enough this time that we can create a window box or two, and what fun it is to choose just the right blooms for the bedroom and study windows.
A bit of blue, white and red for France’s national day hits the spot!
This is the first time we’ve been in town for the Festival d’Aix, and in addition to the operas taking place in several venues (sometimes we can hear the music from the adjacent Archbishop’s Palace Garden) there are musicians involved in the operas and award- winning string quartets playing in the courtyard of a nearby historic building – one evening was filled with Turkish influenced Greek music – unique!
Every Sunday night open-air movies are projected in one park or another, and we stroll through the rose garden of Pavilion Vendome,
spread out our blanket, and take in a show as night falls.
How about a lunch date in seaside La Ciotat? 
Kristin, of French Word a Day, discovered a great little place in the center and has reserved a table for us in a pretty square.
Corey and Yann, who we’ve visited in Cassis a few times, and Jean-Marc and Kristin meet us there, 
and we savor one delicious course after another, lots of laughter and fun interspersing each bite. 
Back in Aix, it’s Open Gallery night, and we walk from one to the other, sipping the wines, sampling the snacks, and appreciating the art – the swaths of aqua ink in this gallery were among my favorites. 
One morning we bump into a neighbor on the edge of town, and happily accept his invitation for lunch in the seaside town where they’re housesitting. From their hillside abode in Carry-le-Rouet, the views across the water to Marseilles are superb – I can’t take my eyes away!
Change into your suits, we’re instructed….no need to ask us twice! 
Apero by the pool, 
lunch on the patio of the lovely home, 
then hours relaxing in the sun…
oh this must be vacation!
by Anne Woodyard | Aug 16, 2016 | Aix en Provence, Aix en Provence market, Ambiance d'Aix, classical music, Food and Wine, France, Pavilion Vendome, Saint Sauveur Cathedral
Late July 2016
Aix en Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
How about celebrating Mozart in the matchless city of Bath, England in November?
As I gathered the photos for this post, I realized that nearly all of them were about music or markets – no wonder we were inspired to name our tour company Music and Markets while here in the summer of 2002! The charms that drew us then still do! Although my delayed flight kept me from arriving in time for the market today, there’s still music right next door, and even though I’m jet lagged, how can I resist?
As I listen to the wonderful Stoneleigh Youth Orchestra, and their guest soloist, I walk around and take in the beauty of Saint Sauveur Cathedral, pausing in the oldest part, the baptistry, its Roman vestiges combined with elegant additions through the centuries.
France is experiencing a summer heat wave, which means I’m out early for errands on Friday – walking by the post office I notice many windows open to draw in as much cool air as possible before shutting tight in the heat of the day.
Our shutters are still open, but will be closed as soon as the burning sun hits them.
The market looks more beautiful than ever, and once again I’m amazed that this bounty and beauty is spread out EVERY day, just steps from Ambiance d’Aix!I stay inside til the air cools a bit, then enjoy an evening walk, circling through the buzz of restaurant – filled Place Cardeurs.
Saturday morning the BIG market returns (three times a week, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, it spreads throughout multiple squares and streets,
but there’s a produce market on Place Richelme every day).
First stop, the flower market, 
then home to plop them on the mantel, 
and out again to shop for lunch and dinner before walking to meet Kirk, who flies in today. These zucchini beignets, 
plus a fragrant melon and paper thin slices of prosciutto will make a perfect welcome-back lunch.
One stall after another begs for a photo – look at me, look at me!
Here’s my haul: this bowlful of yumminess will do just fine for lunch and dinner, no?
Sunday’s full of more Aixoise charms – an afternoon concert at the church, a stroll to Pavilion Vendome with friends
before dinner at our house, then a walk to Jas de Bouffan, Cezanne’s family estate, for an open-air showing of The Horseman on the Roof, 
some of which was filmed right in Aix.
More market bounty awaits us, delicious for both eyes and mouth, at a Monday night dinner at a neighbors home,
and the next day vendors tempt us with more summer tastes 
and colors. 
Just loving life in Aix en Provence!
by Anne | May 5, 2015 | Aix en Provence, Aix en Provence Easter Festival, Aix en Provence restaurants, fountains, Pavilion Vendome, Saint Sauveur Cathedral, tagine, Uncategorized
Music & Markets April Easter Festival, 2015
Aix-en-Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
We’re looking ahead to summer – join us on the fabulous Amalfi Coast in July?
Another artful day in Aix, with visits to the Musée Granet, a peek at a few more fountains, such as this one on Cours Sextius, with a traditional Provençal drummer/piper like those we enjoyed at a Santons festival last year.
Then lunch in the prettiest garden 
beside the gorgeous Pavilion Vendome.
These Atlantes always seem rather worried to me – especially the one on the right. 
Can’t you just hear him saying “Oh no!” as he slaps his forehead?
Our evening concert is the Talens Lyriques, with a program of sacred baroque repertoire led by keyboard player Christophe Rousset, in the Cathedral.
Isn’t this an exquisite harpsichord?
We finish the day with a Moroccan feast at Le Riad – walking in the chilly evening made us eager for the hot mint tea, but I was too late to get a photo with our waiter holding the teapot skyhigh!
A warming and delicious tagine really hit the spot – 
Le Riad’s our favorite place in Aix for good Moroccan cuisine.
by Anne | Apr 30, 2015 | Aix en Provence, Aix en Provence Easter Festival, Aix en Provence market, Aix en Provence restaurants, Le Formal, Music and Markets, Music and Markets Aix Easter Festival, Saint Sauveur Cathedral
Easter Weekend, April 4-5 , 2015
Aix-en-Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
We’re looking ahead to summer – join us on the fabulous Amalfi Coast in July?
We’re eager to meet our Music and Markets guest, Elaine, and walk through market squares over flowing with jazz and early spring produce on the way to her hotel.
What a joy it is to share favorite sights and places once again – all the way from the thermal waters that brought the Romans here centuries ago
to Saint Saveur Cathedral, begun not long after the Romans were here.
We fill our afternoon with one beautiful square after another, checking out fountains and vistas, take a break, then meet again for a special first-night dinner at Aix’s favorite celebration restaurant, Le Formal.
From the foie gras, 
through the lamb medley, 
to ” Chocolate Tempation” we’re delighted, 
as always, with chef Jean-Luc’s creations.
Easter Sunday rings in with a rousing organ trumpet voluntary at the cathedral.
Elaine’s been studying French and the three of us can follow the Easter sermon pretty well, and then ” share the light” with the candles handed out as we entered. 
There’s a lot more going on in Aix today – it’s the first Sunday of the month, so the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville is filled with vintage books rather than flowers.
Although it’s cool, the beaming sun encourages an al fresco lunch on Place des Tanneurs…completed with my all-time favorite dessert, Café Gourmand!
Another first Sunday event, the monthly antique and vintage fair, fills the Cours Mirabeau.
Later, our neighbor, Jean Claude, welcomes the three of us with an aperitif and a tour of his marvelous ceramic collection 
before we enjoy the first of our scheduled concerts, an evening of breathtaking violin and piano in the Grand Theatre. We had not heard Maxim Vengerov before, and although we’ve enjoyed other world-renowned violinists through the years, his tender rich sound just enthralls – a new favorite violinist!
From Prokofiev to Dvorak, Kreisler to Paganini (whose Caprice # 24 in F minor had the audience break out in applause after one fabulous pizzicato variation!) we were on the edge of our seats. A couple of French encores, Faure’s Apres Une Reve (which I love playing with my cellist friend Sarah) and Massenet’s delightful Meditation had us humming in memory as we walked past the Rotonde in the moonlight. 
This first concert of the week will be hard to beat!
by Anne | May 2, 2014 | Aix en Provence, Bistroquet, Music and Markets Aix Easter Festival, Saint Sauveur Cathedral
Easter Sunday, April, 2014
Aix en Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you! Join us on a summer tour on the Amalfi Coast, in Provence, or in Amsterdam/Belgium
We’re welcomed to Saint Sauveur Cathedral by joyous melodies from the organ and trumpets,
and the mass opens with ” He is Risen!”
Protestants all, we feel very welcomed and included in the resurrection celebration,
and as is traditional in Aix, a short combined service of all Christian denominations, with ministers from many congregations participating, follows the mass. Then of course there’s the “cup of welcome” – kirs passed out to adults, juices to children.
We explore the Roman traces exposed in a corner of the cathedral as we sip.
Easter lunch is at Bistroquet, where a few of us enjoy our second foie gras appetizer of the tour… and we’ve just started!
French resident Jill gives Ruth and I scarf tying lessons… perhaps we’ll ” get it” by the end of the week!
We are so enjoying leading a tour from our home in Aix – what a pleasure to invite our guests over once again,
for an aperitif before our first concert of the Festival de Paques.
It’s a thrilling introduction to the festival, as Gustavo Dudamel leads the Goteborg Symphony in a marvelous program of Strauss, Mozart,
and what turns out to be a favorite of all the group, Sibelius’ symphony number 2. Can tomorrow be even better?!
The best way to describe us (Kirk and Anne Woodyard) is that we're interested in the stories that make the places we visit come alive.
We've visited Europe more times than we can count, learned some entertaining stories there, and met some warm and helpful people who also enjoy the wonders of music and life in Europe. Between our music-related travels, we split our time between our homes near Washington DC and in the the south of France. We look forward to sharing these stories and friends and experiences with you.