by Anne Woodyard | Dec 2, 2017 | Aigue Brun, Aix en Provence, Aix en Provence market, Aix en Provence restaurants, Ambiance d'Aix, Bonnieux, Cassis, Cours Mirabeau, fountains, France, France travel, French Word a Day, La Ciotat, Le Riad, Lourmarin, Luberon, Pavilion Vendome, Place de Trois Ormeaux, provence, Roussillon, Santons, south of France, truffles
Thanksgiving Week, 2017
Aix en Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
We’re looking ahead to Spring – Aix en Provence for the Easter Festival.
What’s first on the Aix to-do list when we arrive? Flowers, of course! And what a glorious morning we have for our first market foray! 
The usual produce, flowers, clothes and textiles fill stalls, and the annual Santon Fair is set up beyond the grand Rotonde fountain at the end of Cours Mirabeau – every imaginable figure for your creche scene.
Most of the week we’re walking around familiar lanes, but for a couple of days we rent a car to see friends further afield. After a near-freezing morning, we’re off to La Ciotat, where we’re surprised to see hardy souls braving the water – from stand-up paddlers beyond the waves, to swimmers and sunbathers. 
Our friends Jean-Marc and Kristin (author of one of our favorite blogs, French Word a Day) have recently moved here from a few miles away, and after that chilly start to the day, it’s turned out to be perfect for a garden lunch. Kirk channels Van Gogh in one of Kristin’s hats, 
and we while away the hours together in the sunshine.
After stopping for some big box store supplies outside of Aix while we have the car, we take a side road home and pull off to take in a glorious sunset.
One more day with a car, and we’ve invited new friends Jim and Brenda to see more of the area – the lush and varied Luberon north of Aix calls us today, beginning with ochre-toned Roussillon, 
always a favorite.
Rewinding south towards Bonnieux, we pause at Pont Julien, 
a hearty Roman relic that survived when new bridges perished in floods over the centuries.
Just down the road is bonnie Bonnieux, where we pause for a look across the rooftops and the lower church – 
to the valley beyond. A few elegant doorways from centuries ago attest to the former wealth of the village,
popular again since Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence. Pulling away towards Lourmarin, we’re grabbed with the sight of the village tumbling down its hill, framed in glorious autumn colors – wow!
Between Bonnieux and Lourmarin we stop for a half kilometer hike down a path beside an old mill trace to a stone bridge built by the pre-Luther Protestants called Vaudois. They left Italy where they were known as Waldensians and where they developed considerable skill as stone masons. 
This low, short bridge over the insignificant Aigue Brun stream has as an anchor on the right, a stone concave fan. Those Vaudois cut and laid those stones with such skill that the bridge still stands after about 500 years.
Last stop, chic Lourmarin, with its eye-catching chateau. 
The guys pause for a coffee 
while Brenda and I peek in the shops.
Mt. St. Victoire greets us in the sunset as we approach Aix, 
where a surprise awaits us. Our friend Xavier told us to call him when we got back since he had something to bring us. He’s a collector of contemporary art, but has saved for us a piece from his parent’s estate that he gave to them years ago – of a place he knows we enjoy. Venice! 
We’ve been looking for something for this corner – how nice to have a piece with a personal connection!
Friends and family make life so delightful….the family arrives tomorrow!
by Anne Woodyard | Jul 19, 2017 | Aix en Provence, Aix en Provence market, France, La Ciotat, Pavilion Vendome, Saint Sauveur Cathedral
July 2017
Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
Why not join us on our newest tour in September – Bordeaux and Dordogne
What’s new in Aix? The bell tower of the cathedral is now out of its scaffolding, pristine and gleaming in the summer sun. 
Under the dust of years, it was never apparent that the crown on top is a paler stone – now it’s clearly obvious!
The market is calling…and the most-photographed stall of all is as eye-poppingly gorgeous as always!
We’re here long enough this time that we can create a window box or two, and what fun it is to choose just the right blooms for the bedroom and study windows.
A bit of blue, white and red for France’s national day hits the spot!
This is the first time we’ve been in town for the Festival d’Aix, and in addition to the operas taking place in several venues (sometimes we can hear the music from the adjacent Archbishop’s Palace Garden) there are musicians involved in the operas and award- winning string quartets playing in the courtyard of a nearby historic building – one evening was filled with Turkish influenced Greek music – unique!
Every Sunday night open-air movies are projected in one park or another, and we stroll through the rose garden of Pavilion Vendome,
spread out our blanket, and take in a show as night falls.
How about a lunch date in seaside La Ciotat? 
Kristin, of French Word a Day, discovered a great little place in the center and has reserved a table for us in a pretty square.
Corey and Yann, who we’ve visited in Cassis a few times, and Jean-Marc and Kristin meet us there, 
and we savor one delicious course after another, lots of laughter and fun interspersing each bite. 
Back in Aix, it’s Open Gallery night, and we walk from one to the other, sipping the wines, sampling the snacks, and appreciating the art – the swaths of aqua ink in this gallery were among my favorites. 
One morning we bump into a neighbor on the edge of town, and happily accept his invitation for lunch in the seaside town where they’re housesitting. From their hillside abode in Carry-le-Rouet, the views across the water to Marseilles are superb – I can’t take my eyes away!
Change into your suits, we’re instructed….no need to ask us twice! 
Apero by the pool, 
lunch on the patio of the lovely home, 
then hours relaxing in the sun…
oh this must be vacation!
by Anne Woodyard | Jun 6, 2017 | Aix en Provence, Aix en Provence market, Ambiance d'Aix, Brahms, classical music, Festival de Pâques, France, Pavilion Vendome, provence, St. Jean de Malte
Easter Week 2017
Aix-en-Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
We’re looking ahead to summer – why not join us on the fabulous Amalfi Coast , in Provence, or Amsterdam?
Yesterday we came back from L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue in time for an evening of organ and string quartet in the peaceful elegance of St. Jean de Malte, in the Mazarine District. On the way back to our apartment we detoured, drawn to Place Richelme by the strains of Mozart….and found a “You’re the Maestro” event – as the Knights, a talented group from New York City, played the overture of The Marriage of Figaro. As we watched, a gentleman of a certain age masterfully took charge,
then a lady waved her dog’s paw to conduct, a lively young man jumped around on the podium as he took his turn, and from a window high above a mademoiselle aerobatically conducted 
as the orchestra turned to face her. What fun – you never can tell what will happen on the streets and squares of Aix!
Today we’re shopping for a picnic in the garden…some hearty prosciutto here, 
fruit there, 
popped into our market basket to enjoy by the blooms in Pavilion de Vendome. 
More music awaits us tonight – but first, an Aperitif Dinatoire (that means enough finger food to make a dinner!) at our home.
We’re delighted with this evening’s performance – entitled Brothers and Sisters. Four groups of siblings, in a variety of combinations, entertain us with Schumann, Brahms, Franck, and a world premier of Thierry Escaich’s String Sextet – 
the composer taking a bow after the musicians at the end. And the finale to this evening? A streetside crepe filled with nutella – yum!
by Anne Woodyard | Aug 16, 2016 | Aix en Provence, Aix en Provence market, Ambiance d'Aix, classical music, Food and Wine, France, Pavilion Vendome, Saint Sauveur Cathedral
Late July 2016
Aix en Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
How about celebrating Mozart in the matchless city of Bath, England in November?
As I gathered the photos for this post, I realized that nearly all of them were about music or markets – no wonder we were inspired to name our tour company Music and Markets while here in the summer of 2002! The charms that drew us then still do! Although my delayed flight kept me from arriving in time for the market today, there’s still music right next door, and even though I’m jet lagged, how can I resist?
As I listen to the wonderful Stoneleigh Youth Orchestra, and their guest soloist, I walk around and take in the beauty of Saint Sauveur Cathedral, pausing in the oldest part, the baptistry, its Roman vestiges combined with elegant additions through the centuries.
France is experiencing a summer heat wave, which means I’m out early for errands on Friday – walking by the post office I notice many windows open to draw in as much cool air as possible before shutting tight in the heat of the day.
Our shutters are still open, but will be closed as soon as the burning sun hits them.
The market looks more beautiful than ever, and once again I’m amazed that this bounty and beauty is spread out EVERY day, just steps from Ambiance d’Aix!I stay inside til the air cools a bit, then enjoy an evening walk, circling through the buzz of restaurant – filled Place Cardeurs.
Saturday morning the BIG market returns (three times a week, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, it spreads throughout multiple squares and streets,
but there’s a produce market on Place Richelme every day).
First stop, the flower market, 
then home to plop them on the mantel, 
and out again to shop for lunch and dinner before walking to meet Kirk, who flies in today. These zucchini beignets, 
plus a fragrant melon and paper thin slices of prosciutto will make a perfect welcome-back lunch.
One stall after another begs for a photo – look at me, look at me!
Here’s my haul: this bowlful of yumminess will do just fine for lunch and dinner, no?
Sunday’s full of more Aixoise charms – an afternoon concert at the church, a stroll to Pavilion Vendome with friends
before dinner at our house, then a walk to Jas de Bouffan, Cezanne’s family estate, for an open-air showing of The Horseman on the Roof, 
some of which was filmed right in Aix.
More market bounty awaits us, delicious for both eyes and mouth, at a Monday night dinner at a neighbors home,
and the next day vendors tempt us with more summer tastes 
and colors. 
Just loving life in Aix en Provence!
by Anne Woodyard | Jul 3, 2016 | Aix en Provence market, France, Musee de Tapisseries, Musée Granet, Pavilion Vendome, Place de Martyrs de la Resistance, Rotonde fountain
Saturday, May 21, 2016
Aix en Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
Why not join us on our newest tour in September – Bordeaux and Dordogne?
Extravagant? Why? Because there is so much to enjoy in Aix today that we can’t even fit it all in! We begin by meeting friends for coffee at Pain Quotidien, 
catch up on each other’s news, and make plans to get together in August when we return (can’t wait to see Bénédicte,s latest garden folly – a treehouse!).
Then off we go to troll the markets – we need hats for tomorrow’s garden day. What do you think?
Espadrilles, anyone?
We pass by Cezannés last dwelling on our way home, noting the tall and wide window of the studio he had built on the top floor – 
we’d never noticed that before, but recently read about it and looked high to see it for ourselves today.
Later we begin our gallery/museum wander…first the latest expo next door, beside the lovely cloister by the Palais de l’Archevêché.
The artist’s scenes of Venice remind us of our stay there earlier this year – could we fit a canvas in our suitcase??
This evening, from 7 until midnight, is Open Museum Night, and from one end of town to another there are special events in the glorious old buildings, all free entry. We begin at the Museum of Old Aix, where a guitarist strums on the grand staircase as we enter. 
The rooms are filled with treasures of ages past – gorgeous mirrors, exquisite doll houses, 
tall room dividers with scenes from centuries ago. And the building itself, a former home of an eighteenth century nobleman, remarkable both inside and out.
Next stop, the Museum of Tapestries, in the Archbishop’s Palace just beside our apartment. Ascending the grand staircase, 
we pause in a room lined with fabulous tapestries
as an ensemble warbles ancient Jewish tunes.
We’ve visited Aix’s main art museum, the Granet, several times, but step inside the crowded courtyard to watch some energetic and emotional modern dance, then stroll through a room or two of art, 
before walking by the Four Dolphins fountain on the way to Cours Mirabeau.
This evening is also the finale of Journées d’Eloquence, Days of Eloquence, literary performances commemorating the Resistance in France. We’ve seen readings in front of the Town Hall near our home, music and dance in an open-air shopping mall, and tonight, on the Cours Mirabeau,as a chorus sings and a narrator speaks, a line-up of actors dressed in World War II period uniforms and clothes help the audience picture what the words express. 
An officer and staff roll off in the vintage car, flags fluttering, as the program ends.
At the other end of the Cours the full moon peeps above the horizon, and we walk by yet another of Aix’s beautiful fountains on our way to the last event of this extravagant Saturday.
The Pavilion Vendome has been taken over by young artists, and one after the other flash their techno creations on the elegant façade 
as the crowd sits on the grass, oohing and aahing at the sight. A day FILLED with the delights of Aix!
by Anne | Sep 8, 2015 | Aix en Provence, Musique dans la Rue, Pavilion Vendome
Sunday & Monday, August 23-24, 2015
Aix en Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
How about celebrating Mozart in the matchless city of Bath, England in November?
Even in places where we spend a lot of time, we keep looking up and around – and are often surprised by something delightful that we hadn’t previously noticed, like this little door-topping cherub. 
One of Aix’s loveliest corners, the Pavilion Vendome, is hosting a “Pique-Nique Musical” as part of Musique dans la Rue. Described as “under a Berber tent, in a nomad ambiance, you can bring your picnic…”. We take the (what we thought) easy way – buying middle Eastern specialties from les délices d’Aminata, who have set up a stall in the park. But with only two people serving everyone who wants to enjoy their offerings, one selling and one preparing, we didn’t know we’d have to wait more than half an hour in line, getting hungrier by the minute! But we did have musical entertainment as we waited, and the kebabs were indeed delicious! 
The much-anticipated jazz concerts scheduled for the evening were, unfortunately, rained out – a torrential storm blew through Aix Sunday evening!
Just a couple more days til we fly back to the US, and Cassidy’s now a regular at the bakery,
as well as the café where she sits, sips, and studies her college textbooks on her phone. 
I’ve long appreciated the interesting classes Kathy offers at Food Lovers Odessey, both in France and Italy. Finally we’re both in Aix at the same time, so we visit her cooking school studio and enjoy a tasty aperitif. 
We’ll continue to let our Ambiance d’Aix renters know about her classes in Aix – such a delicious way to experience life here!
Monday evening’s filled with concerts again, and we enjoy a couple of them with our friends,
then have a fun gathering in their apartment with lots of goodies from both of our refrigerators – 
it’s getting to be clean-out-the-cupboard time, always much more fun in Aix than when we’re leaving Virginia!
The best way to describe us (Kirk and Anne Woodyard) is that we're interested in the stories that make the places we visit come alive.
We've visited Europe more times than we can count, learned some entertaining stories there, and met some warm and helpful people who also enjoy the wonders of music and life in Europe. Between our music-related travels, we split our time between our homes near Washington DC and in the the south of France. We look forward to sharing these stories and friends and experiences with you.