by Anne Woodyard | Dec 2, 2017 | Aigue Brun, Aix en Provence, Aix en Provence market, Aix en Provence restaurants, Ambiance d'Aix, Bonnieux, Cassis, Cours Mirabeau, fountains, France, France travel, French Word a Day, La Ciotat, Le Riad, Lourmarin, Luberon, Pavilion Vendome, Place de Trois Ormeaux, provence, Roussillon, Santons, south of France, truffles
Thanksgiving Week, 2017
Aix en Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
We’re looking ahead to Spring – Aix en Provence for the Easter Festival.
What’s first on the Aix to-do list when we arrive? Flowers, of course! And what a glorious morning we have for our first market foray! 
The usual produce, flowers, clothes and textiles fill stalls, and the annual Santon Fair is set up beyond the grand Rotonde fountain at the end of Cours Mirabeau – every imaginable figure for your creche scene.
Most of the week we’re walking around familiar lanes, but for a couple of days we rent a car to see friends further afield. After a near-freezing morning, we’re off to La Ciotat, where we’re surprised to see hardy souls braving the water – from stand-up paddlers beyond the waves, to swimmers and sunbathers. 
Our friends Jean-Marc and Kristin (author of one of our favorite blogs, French Word a Day) have recently moved here from a few miles away, and after that chilly start to the day, it’s turned out to be perfect for a garden lunch. Kirk channels Van Gogh in one of Kristin’s hats, 
and we while away the hours together in the sunshine.
After stopping for some big box store supplies outside of Aix while we have the car, we take a side road home and pull off to take in a glorious sunset.
One more day with a car, and we’ve invited new friends Jim and Brenda to see more of the area – the lush and varied Luberon north of Aix calls us today, beginning with ochre-toned Roussillon, 
always a favorite.
Rewinding south towards Bonnieux, we pause at Pont Julien, 
a hearty Roman relic that survived when new bridges perished in floods over the centuries.
Just down the road is bonnie Bonnieux, where we pause for a look across the rooftops and the lower church – 
to the valley beyond. A few elegant doorways from centuries ago attest to the former wealth of the village,
popular again since Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence. Pulling away towards Lourmarin, we’re grabbed with the sight of the village tumbling down its hill, framed in glorious autumn colors – wow!
Between Bonnieux and Lourmarin we stop for a half kilometer hike down a path beside an old mill trace to a stone bridge built by the pre-Luther Protestants called Vaudois. They left Italy where they were known as Waldensians and where they developed considerable skill as stone masons. 
This low, short bridge over the insignificant Aigue Brun stream has as an anchor on the right, a stone concave fan. Those Vaudois cut and laid those stones with such skill that the bridge still stands after about 500 years.
Last stop, chic Lourmarin, with its eye-catching chateau. 
The guys pause for a coffee 
while Brenda and I peek in the shops.
Mt. St. Victoire greets us in the sunset as we approach Aix, 
where a surprise awaits us. Our friend Xavier told us to call him when we got back since he had something to bring us. He’s a collector of contemporary art, but has saved for us a piece from his parent’s estate that he gave to them years ago – of a place he knows we enjoy. Venice! 
We’ve been looking for something for this corner – how nice to have a piece with a personal connection!
Friends and family make life so delightful….the family arrives tomorrow!
by Anne Woodyard | May 30, 2017 | Aix en Provence, Café Gourmand, fountains, fountains, France, Place Albertas, Rotonde fountain, Uncategorized
Easter Week 2017
Aix en Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
We’re looking ahead to summer – why not join us on the fabulous Amalfi Coast , in Provence, or Amsterdam?
It’s our chance to show off our much-loved city of Aix this week, as we begin another Aix Easter Festival Tour. From markets in bloom 
to historical collections in the Museum of Old Aix, 
from favorite squares such as Place Albertas to Mary and saints keeping watch from neighborhood corners,
it’s truly a pleasure to share!
Of course the cuisine is a big draw too – I’m excited to introduce my all-time fave dessert, Café Gourmand, to our guest! 
And then there are the venues in which we enjoy our meals – 
the weather is perfect for al fresco dining.
Before our first concert of the tour, in the Grand Theatre, we’re invited to our neighbors for a lavish Aperitif, 
and a viewing of their exquisite museum-quality collections.
As we walk back from the concert the Rotonde gleams a goodnight.
Sleep well, tomorrow will be full of more discoveries!
by Anne Woodyard | Jan 29, 2017 | Aix en Provence, Aix en Provence market, Cours Mirabeau, fountains, France, Place de Trois Ormeaux, Rotonde fountain
Week of January 16-22, 2017
Aix en Provence and Paris, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
We’re looking ahead to Spring – Aix en Provence for the Easter Festival.
When we were last in Aix in November, we left it all prepared for major painting, needed due to the damages suffered when our upstairs neighbor’s renovations caused a flood in our apartment in April. It took that long for the ancient walls to dry out enough to repair, and for the insurance company to decide on what to do. So we’re eager to see our good-as-new living room and study, and even though it’s after midnight when we finally walk in the door on Sunday night (Monday morning!) we walk around and take it all in, delighted with the result. 
The damage was mostly high up on the 12 foot ceilings, so was not immediately visible to anyone but us, so it’s hard to show the difference here – the entire rooms were painted. We can’t go to bed, late as it is, without putting a few things back where they belong, the antique trumeau (mirror with a painting) above the fireplace, the furniture where it’s supposed to be, a painting or two on the walls – but the rest can wait til tomorrow.
After sleeping late the next morning in our cozy warm home, we quickly eat breakfast and return to the beautiful lanes and squares of Aix, where the temps have not yet risen to freezing – not a common occurrence here! On Cours Mirabeau the water flows from one side of the Neuf Canons fountain, and remains frozen on the other. Winter seems to be a popular time for filming in Aix – perhaps because there are not crowds of day-trippers as in the warmer months. By the Palais de Justice a 70s crime show is in process – see the vintage police van and uniforms? 
And an episode of another series is filming on beautiful Place de Trois Ormeaux.
When we stroll by later at night all is calm once again…
with Christmas lights still gleaming.
Good friends will join us for lunch, so out to the market I go early on Tuesday…but it’s so cold that all the flowers and produce are covered up! 
No wonder – they need protection on this 20 degree morning!
I return after a morning meeting with the painter, and find the market bursting with its usual rainbow of color.
Jean-Marc and Kristi arrive with a decadent dessert and a prime rosé from their first official harvest at Mas de Brun – 
thanks to Kristi for these great photos! 
She also wrote about our time together on her lovely blog French Word a Day.
As the days pass, the market’s affected by the chill – very few vendors at our daily market on Place Richelme – the olive oil is solid rather than liquid,
and iced cherubs shiver on the Rotonde Fountain.
And we walk and walk, day and night, taking in the beauty of Aix –
glorious whatever the weather!
by Anne Woodyard | Nov 25, 2016 | Aix en Provence, Aix en Provence Christmas market, Aix en Provence market, Cours Mirabeau, fountains, fountains, France, Quartier Mazarin, Quatre Dauphins, St. Jean de Malte, Uncategorized
A weekend in France, November 2016
Paris, Aix en Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
We’re looking ahead to Spring – Aix en Provence for the Easter Festival.
The days have just sped by since we arrived in Paris last Friday, where we breakfasted in luxury in Le Train Bleu at Gare de Lyon after our overnight flight. 
A quick 3 hours on the TGV (fast train) and we were back home in Aix en Provence, and before we knew it, the Saturday market was calling, in full bloom. 
Due to major urban renewal work going on in the biggest market square, as well as Cours Mirabeau now filled with….well, you’ll hear about that later…the vendors have been moved to open areas near the Rotonde, the grand fountain at the end of Cours Mirabeau. Not this pretty fountain below – but since the market’s now there, it’s getting a little more attention than it used to!
The stalls are as busy as ever – the move doesn’t seem to have hurt sales! And the abundance of fall produce graces every smiling vendor’s table.
As we walk through the Place des Precheurs, the former market square, looking into the excavations preparing for pedestrianizing the spacious area, we notice a flyer about an afternoon modern dance in the excavations so after lunch we return to watch. Mysterious sounds from the bass initiate the performance, Souffle de Pierres – Breath of Rocks – then the elegantly supple dancer begins drawing our attention to the stones below. 
An associate reads passages from several authors about the meaning of archeological finds, and the former lives and history beneath our feet. Lying down on the stones, the dancer seems to fall asleep, then rises, hair unbound, 
portraying the energy simmering beneath. As she dances to the surface, then bows, we applaud…yet another unique taste of life in Aix.
There was music throughout the markets this morning, and as I walk through the streets later I see a trio spiffed up in suits, ready to play – 
and as they sway melodically along the lane I wonder if I’ve stepped into New Orleans!
After dinner we’re out again, taking in the lights on Cours Mirabeau, lined for the season with Christmas chalets selling seasonal crafts and goodies,on our way to a string quartet with piano (yes, a quintet) concert at the Conservatory. The Vin Chaud (hot wine) booth, as always, is the busiest! 
And the concert was fabulous (and free!) – one of our favorite quintets, by Schumann, performed to a packed house with warmth, excellence and verve by conservatory professors.
The Rotonde shimmers as we walk by on our way home – 
so fun to be here at this time of year!
We know the rain’s coming, so we enjoy as much outdoor time as possible on Sunday, strolling through the Mazarin Quarter after church – a poor dolphin on one of Aix’s most famous fountains is strapped to his post, loosened by rebels illegally climbing up the historic monument, and JUST after it was completely restored! 
We arrive at St. Jean de Malte just as their mass ends, 
and as people stream through the doors a postlude from the magnificent organ bursts out into the street.
One more concert completes the weekend – the Breakdown Quartet, 
with music of Gershwin, Piazzola and more – at an intimate salon not far from our home.
Aaah Aix – every time we come we love you more!
by Anne Woodyard | Nov 27, 2015 | Aix en Provence, Aix en Provence Christmas market, Aix en Provence market, fountains, France, France travel
November , 2015
Aix en Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
We’re looking ahead to Spring – Aix en Provence for the Easter Festival.
Both night and day find us out strolling favorite lanes, enjoying the sparkle of Christmas lights and markets on Cours Mirabeau,
the delicate beauty of the Repetto windows – Swan Lake featured this month,
then the morning markets, winter warmers in abundance.
Beside the annual Santon (little saint) market the clothing booths spread out,
and further into the medieval center are the daily produce markets.
On Place des Precheurs Kirk checks out the Moroccan house slippers, finds a pair big enough, 
and to his question “how can you tell which is which?” the amiable vendor marks the leather bottoms with left and right – L, G for gauche (French) and after teasingly offering to write it in Arabic too, we eagerly say YES – so Kirk can tell in all three languages.
Arabic’s the prettiest, no?
We always try a different way home, wanting to enjoy all the streets, and pass by a new shop – Santa Maria Novella, a Florence favorite, now has an Aixoise boutique!
On the spur of the moment we invite neighbors over for an apero this evening, Wednesday, so it’s time to refresh the drooping eucalyptus on the mantel with a bunch of red ranunculus.
After stocking our cupboards with a bunch of goodies for the gathering, we fit in another stroll, eager to grab all we can of this gorgeous town before flying away soon.And after a fun evening, candles gleaming from the hearth,
it’s time for yet another walk down Cours Mirabeau,
then by Cathedral Saint Sauveur.
Thursday’s our last day here, and although we’re not buying anything to eat (we’ll just clean out the refrigerator for our final meals), we HAVE to wander through the colorful market stalls. And today there’s MUSIC with our market!
We’ve started a Santon collection for our youngest grandaughter, Ivy, and she has requested baby Jesus this year…so we return to the delightful stalls at the bottom of Cours Mirabeau
and choose a nativity trio for her, enjoying the vignettes set up by the vendors.
We head towards another side of town for a pre-dinner walk, 
ending up as the sun sets on Cours Mirabeau again, where the hot mulled wine stall is, as usual, the busiest of all.
Aix doesn’t have big department store windows decorated for the holidays, but it does have an annual Creche set up near Monoprix on Cours Mirabeau, filled with huddles of santons busy with life – fishermen on the nearby coast,
dancing Arlesiennes (in the lovely traditional dress of Arles, a city west of here),
and olive harvesters. 
Yes, there’s a nativity scene tucked up in the corner, Mt. Sainte Victoire snowcapped beyond.
Some things certainly stand out more on a winter evening, when interior lights are lit although it’s still relatively early. We’ve never seen the interior of the Palais de Justice, but are drawn in by it’s gleam as we walk by. 
The beautiful double tiered cour certainly impresses!
After a delicious dinner of leftovers (so much more interesting when we’re leaving France rather than Virginia!) we walk around one more time, appreciating this lovely over-door in the adjacent square,
and the full moon over our favorite pediment on the town hall square.
Goodnight and goodbye, Aix – we’re already planning our return trip!
by Anne | Sep 9, 2015 | Aix en Provence, Aix en Provence market, Aix en Provence restaurants, Café Gourmand, fountains, France travel, French Youth Orchestra, Le Bouddoir
Tuesday, August 25, 2015
Aix en Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
How about celebrating Mozart in the matchless city of Bath, England in November?
One last day…and it’s a market day. No, we won’t buy anything else, but we’ve got to walk through and just take it all in one more time. Passing another sweet door-topper, 
and a mysterious sunny corner,
we stroll through the bustling squares, passing a beautiful fountain or two, 
the warm scents of fresh-baked bread, 
the best paella man – yes, it’s going fast!
It still feels like summer here – need a flirty fedora? 
But fall’s encroaching, we’ve walked over crunchy leaves in our square, and here the fall colors creep in to the market. 
We’ve got another taste or two that we don’t want Cassidy to miss, so amble over to a favorite restaurant, Le Bouddoir, on lovely Place des Tanneurs, for lunch. 
Leave room for dessert – you’ve GOT to try Café Gourmand! 
Cassidy agrees, it’s a fabulous French invention…who wouldn’t like FOUR desserts rather than just one?!
One more stop – a new pirate-themed candy shop, where she stocks up for the long flight tomorrow. 
We take the long way home, peeking in on another favorite square, Place Albertas, 
and walking through our adjacent square, where lunch is still in session.
Then I get to work packing and cleaning, and Cassidy studies on the windowsill, still her favorite perch. 
Ok, chores done, we can fit in a final concert or two – and we begin with the group we heard rehearsing earlier right next door, the Percussion and Brass sections of the OJF,
French Youth Orchestra – here’s a Spanish themed piece. They’re terrific musicians all!
And last of all, a choral group in the cloister, also just next door.
Aaah Aix, we’re going to miss you!
The best way to describe us (Kirk and Anne Woodyard) is that we're interested in the stories that make the places we visit come alive.
We've visited Europe more times than we can count, learned some entertaining stories there, and met some warm and helpful people who also enjoy the wonders of music and life in Europe. Between our music-related travels, we split our time between our homes near Washington DC and in the the south of France. We look forward to sharing these stories and friends and experiences with you.