by Anne Woodyard | Nov 25, 2016 | Aix en Provence, Aix en Provence Christmas market, Aix en Provence market, Cours Mirabeau, fountains, fountains, France, Quartier Mazarin, Quatre Dauphins, St. Jean de Malte, Uncategorized
A weekend in France, November 2016
Paris, Aix en Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
We’re looking ahead to Spring – Aix en Provence for the Easter Festival.
The days have just sped by since we arrived in Paris last Friday, where we breakfasted in luxury in Le Train Bleu at Gare de Lyon after our overnight flight. 
A quick 3 hours on the TGV (fast train) and we were back home in Aix en Provence, and before we knew it, the Saturday market was calling, in full bloom. 
Due to major urban renewal work going on in the biggest market square, as well as Cours Mirabeau now filled with….well, you’ll hear about that later…the vendors have been moved to open areas near the Rotonde, the grand fountain at the end of Cours Mirabeau. Not this pretty fountain below – but since the market’s now there, it’s getting a little more attention than it used to!
The stalls are as busy as ever – the move doesn’t seem to have hurt sales! And the abundance of fall produce graces every smiling vendor’s table.
As we walk through the Place des Precheurs, the former market square, looking into the excavations preparing for pedestrianizing the spacious area, we notice a flyer about an afternoon modern dance in the excavations so after lunch we return to watch. Mysterious sounds from the bass initiate the performance, Souffle de Pierres – Breath of Rocks – then the elegantly supple dancer begins drawing our attention to the stones below. 
An associate reads passages from several authors about the meaning of archeological finds, and the former lives and history beneath our feet. Lying down on the stones, the dancer seems to fall asleep, then rises, hair unbound, 
portraying the energy simmering beneath. As she dances to the surface, then bows, we applaud…yet another unique taste of life in Aix.
There was music throughout the markets this morning, and as I walk through the streets later I see a trio spiffed up in suits, ready to play – 
and as they sway melodically along the lane I wonder if I’ve stepped into New Orleans!
After dinner we’re out again, taking in the lights on Cours Mirabeau, lined for the season with Christmas chalets selling seasonal crafts and goodies,on our way to a string quartet with piano (yes, a quintet) concert at the Conservatory. The Vin Chaud (hot wine) booth, as always, is the busiest! 
And the concert was fabulous (and free!) – one of our favorite quintets, by Schumann, performed to a packed house with warmth, excellence and verve by conservatory professors.
The Rotonde shimmers as we walk by on our way home – 
so fun to be here at this time of year!
We know the rain’s coming, so we enjoy as much outdoor time as possible on Sunday, strolling through the Mazarin Quarter after church – a poor dolphin on one of Aix’s most famous fountains is strapped to his post, loosened by rebels illegally climbing up the historic monument, and JUST after it was completely restored! 
We arrive at St. Jean de Malte just as their mass ends, 
and as people stream through the doors a postlude from the magnificent organ bursts out into the street.
One more concert completes the weekend – the Breakdown Quartet, 
with music of Gershwin, Piazzola and more – at an intimate salon not far from our home.
Aaah Aix – every time we come we love you more!
by Anne Woodyard | Nov 27, 2015 | Aix en Provence, Aix en Provence Christmas market, Aix en Provence market, fountains, France, France travel
November , 2015
Aix en Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
We’re looking ahead to Spring – Aix en Provence for the Easter Festival.
Both night and day find us out strolling favorite lanes, enjoying the sparkle of Christmas lights and markets on Cours Mirabeau,
the delicate beauty of the Repetto windows – Swan Lake featured this month,
then the morning markets, winter warmers in abundance.
Beside the annual Santon (little saint) market the clothing booths spread out,
and further into the medieval center are the daily produce markets.
On Place des Precheurs Kirk checks out the Moroccan house slippers, finds a pair big enough, 
and to his question “how can you tell which is which?” the amiable vendor marks the leather bottoms with left and right – L, G for gauche (French) and after teasingly offering to write it in Arabic too, we eagerly say YES – so Kirk can tell in all three languages.
Arabic’s the prettiest, no?
We always try a different way home, wanting to enjoy all the streets, and pass by a new shop – Santa Maria Novella, a Florence favorite, now has an Aixoise boutique!
On the spur of the moment we invite neighbors over for an apero this evening, Wednesday, so it’s time to refresh the drooping eucalyptus on the mantel with a bunch of red ranunculus.
After stocking our cupboards with a bunch of goodies for the gathering, we fit in another stroll, eager to grab all we can of this gorgeous town before flying away soon.And after a fun evening, candles gleaming from the hearth,
it’s time for yet another walk down Cours Mirabeau,
then by Cathedral Saint Sauveur.
Thursday’s our last day here, and although we’re not buying anything to eat (we’ll just clean out the refrigerator for our final meals), we HAVE to wander through the colorful market stalls. And today there’s MUSIC with our market!
We’ve started a Santon collection for our youngest grandaughter, Ivy, and she has requested baby Jesus this year…so we return to the delightful stalls at the bottom of Cours Mirabeau
and choose a nativity trio for her, enjoying the vignettes set up by the vendors.
We head towards another side of town for a pre-dinner walk, 
ending up as the sun sets on Cours Mirabeau again, where the hot mulled wine stall is, as usual, the busiest of all.
Aix doesn’t have big department store windows decorated for the holidays, but it does have an annual Creche set up near Monoprix on Cours Mirabeau, filled with huddles of santons busy with life – fishermen on the nearby coast,
dancing Arlesiennes (in the lovely traditional dress of Arles, a city west of here),
and olive harvesters. 
Yes, there’s a nativity scene tucked up in the corner, Mt. Sainte Victoire snowcapped beyond.
Some things certainly stand out more on a winter evening, when interior lights are lit although it’s still relatively early. We’ve never seen the interior of the Palais de Justice, but are drawn in by it’s gleam as we walk by. 
The beautiful double tiered cour certainly impresses!
After a delicious dinner of leftovers (so much more interesting when we’re leaving France rather than Virginia!) we walk around one more time, appreciating this lovely over-door in the adjacent square,
and the full moon over our favorite pediment on the town hall square.
Goodnight and goodbye, Aix – we’re already planning our return trip!
by Anne | Dec 14, 2012 | Aix en Provence, Aix en Provence Christmas market, Cours Mirabeau, Rotonde fountain
late November, 2012
Aix en Provence, France
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you! Next on the itinerary: Our spring tours in Barcelona, Venice or Prague
Aix welcomes us back with bling of its own – it’s not just Paris who knows how to dress up for the holidays! The elegant Rotonde fountain at the end of Cours Mirabeau drips with glittering lights rather than water.
We schlepped a 6 foot drapery rod and lining material back from the Grands Magasins (department stores) of Paris – another plus of traveling by train rather than air – and now the work begins, actually on Thanksgiving Day!
I’m sewing the lining onto the backs of our striped drapes, for a prettier view than the additional set of curtains left by the previous owner that met the eye in the foyer.
Kirk finds his drill and installs the brass rod, replacing a sagging wooden pole that’s been doing the job since we bought the apartment. Now doesn’t it look nice?!
And here’s the new lining – it looks better in person than the photo.
Our reward for the work of the day? Aperitifs and enjoyable conversation with our wonderful neighbor across the street, then a leisurely stroll down sparkly Cours Mirabeau, where the Christmas Market chalets, filled with toys, gifts, warm hats and gloves, line one side of the street.
The Vin Chaud (hot wine) both is the busiest of all,
and gleaming Good King Rene watches over the children’s rides set up at the far end of the Cours.
We’re invited for dinner at another friend’s home on Friday, and I must share this intriguing first course – a platter of five different kinds of smoked fish. I am usually not a fan of smoked items, but each one of these, from mackerel to tuna to three kinds of salmon, were absolutely fabulous, mild and full of flavor, served with blinis and tzatziki.
We asked Xavier where he found so many different kinds of smoked fish, and he described a sailor’s boutique with all kinds of boating equipment and clothes, but also food that would travel well on the sea, such as this amazing selection of smoked fish. The cool and creamy tzatziki (a tangy Greek yogurt/cucumber dip) was perfect with it – I’d love to find some really good smoked salmon and serve this myself!
We’ve been cooking at home (when not invited out!) while in Aix, and treat ourselves to lunch out on Saturday, our last day here, at a place we read about on Aixcentric and have wanted to try – Le Comte d’Aix. I’m sure no one’s surprised that we both choose to complete our dining in Aix with perfectly cooked duck breast, served with a sweet tart apple reduction – delicieux!
We began our latest visit here with a surprise concert in the cathedral last Sunday, and finish it tonight with an evening of Bach , presented by the J.S. Bach Academie -Aix, in one of the protestant “temples” as they’re called. A fitting musical finale as we look forward to the holidays.
Au revoir Aix – we’ve enjoyed your Christmas sparkle!
And we wish all of you a wonderful Christmas – may it be filled with love, beauty, and joy!
The best way to describe us (Kirk and Anne Woodyard) is that we're interested in the stories that make the places we visit come alive.
We've visited Europe more times than we can count, learned some entertaining stories there, and met some warm and helpful people who also enjoy the wonders of music and life in Europe. Between our music-related travels, we split our time between our homes near Washington DC and in the the south of France. We look forward to sharing these stories and friends and experiences with you.