by Anne Woodyard | Dec 15, 2015 | Bath, Mozartfest
Wednesday, November 18, 2015
Bath, England
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
We’re looking ahead to Spring – Aix en Provence for the Easter Festival.
There’s a tempting shop around the corner that we’ve passed several times, and since we have a bit of time this morning, we stop by for coffee and a look around.
I believe that there are individual boutiques combined in the space, everything from an Italian coffee shop and deli to home decor,
furniture
and unique clothing…yes, lots of temptations indeed!
Another fascinating shopping area in Bath is Margaret’s Buildings, a pedestrian lane between The Crescent and The Circus – 
more intriguing shops peddling tea and produce,
antiques, 
clothing and locally crafted leather goods. An easy place to fill a suitcase or two!
On the tour itinerary today is lunch at The Circus – 
highly recommended, as you can see!
With an intriguing menu (this unlikely combo of roasted cauliflower, grapes and almonds was fantastic!) 
and a lovely ambiance, it effortlessly lives up to its reputation. We’re seated in the elegant lower level, where the kitchen of this Georgian terraced home was generations ago – the ancient stove has been left in place. 
Our guide on Sunday said that his favorite crescent is Lansdown, so we drive further uphill (we’re already in the upper town) to check it out – 
another gracious neighborhood of Bath.
Continuing to enjoy this non-rainy day, we pause to take in the sunset before tonight’s Mozartfest concert, once again in the beautiful Guild Hall. 
When we arrive we find that the scheduled soprano is indisposed, and a tenor will be performing tonight. He is just wonderful – with a program of French love songs,
and we all agree that we prefer this program to the original!
And now for a post-concert snack – at Jamie’s Italian. Yes, that English genius continues to expand his empire, and we feast on some excellent Italian cuisine – a board of salumi, cheese and garnishes, 
a luscious squash risotto, 
and a hearty mushroom dish baked in a shallow earthenware dish lined with “music paper”- thin sheets of Sardinian bread. Another place we can highly recommend!
by Anne Woodyard | Dec 14, 2015 | Bath, England, Mozart
Tuesday, November 17, 2015
Bath, England
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
We’re looking ahead to Spring – Aix en Provence for the Easter Festival.
What a treat to enjoy clear blue skies today! 
After a marvelous noontime concert at the Guild Hall – the Galliard Ensemble playing the first Mozart we’ve heard at the Mozartfest this year –
we stop for a pint and a pie at The Raven, an historic pub known for its pies – 
and yes, they were delicious!
We have a treat in store tonight – dinner at the elegant home of David and Brenda. David, a chef extraordinaire, served a dinner that was as delicious to the eyes as to the palate, beginning with hors d’oeuvres topped with gold leaf and garnished with a lily.
Into the dining room,
where beautifully plated courses continued to appear before us, until the grand finale-
a sparkly-silver-topped pavlova – wow!
A funny coincidence – we’d stopped by a local doctor in the morning, and who should turn up for dessert, after lecturing in a nearby town about medicinal uses of the thermal baths, but that very doctor!
He’s also written a book about the waters of Bath – ” Diseased, Douched and Doctored”. After his long day, he’s certainly ready for a glass of wine with his pavlova!
by Anne Woodyard | Dec 10, 2015 | Bath, England
Monday, November 16, 2015
Avebury and Lacock, England
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
We’re looking ahead to Spring – Aix en Provence for the Easter Festival.
The southwest of England is full of intriguing spots – Stonehenge, that we passed on the road a few days ago, more prehistoric stones we’ll see later today, and on the way to Avebury a white horse or two carved into the hillside! These aren’t as old as the stones, and this one, the Cherwel White Horse, was cut into the chalky hill in 1780 at the direction of a certain “mad doctor”.
It certainly catches our eye from the road!
The Red Lion in Avebury, proudly “the only pub IN a stone circle” now boasts a new thatched roof –
remember it was under renovation when we stopped by in September? 
We wander among the rocks, part of the largest stone circle in the world, and sheep, 
climbing up the berm which winds for miles above a vast ditch (called a henge). 
We think Avebury is so much more interesting than better-known Stonehenge – we love being able to walk and dream among the stones, here for more than 4000 years. No need to stay at a distance as at Stonehenge.
The village of Avebury is well worth a visit too – just one lane, home to a handsome church, 
St. James (with an ancient Saxon window or two still intact), and several pretty homes. Wellies at the ready here,
and this one’s reserved for the teacher – nice! 
Next stop, the village of Lacock, which is a National Heritage Site in its entirety. Our table is waiting at The George, an historic pub dating from the 15th century. 
Unlike many popular tourist sites, or a place renowned for its history rather than its food, The George serves terrific British food, such as this quintessential dish, complete with mushy peas.
Their authentic Sticky Toffee Pudding is deeper and darker than any I’ve tried – almost a musky taste. The chef shares her secret – a lavish amount of dark treacle syrup!
I’ll have to try that at home!
It’s recess time – Lacock’s primary school has around 75 pupils. 
The village, with its well-preserved church, 
homes, 
and businesses, is perfect for a tv production or movie set centuries ago. Scenes from Pride and Prejudice, Cranford, some Harry Potter movies, and most recently, Downton Abbey have been filmed here – can’t you imagine this lane, minus cars, with actors in period dress stopping by a shop? 
Returning to Bath, we’ve got time for an evening stroll 
before a pre-concert aperitif in our apartment. 
The Abbey shimmers at night as we pass on our way to the Guild Hall. 
Built in the late 1700s, this gem of Bath architecture was originally built as the town hall, and still houses the Council Chambers and registry offices. Have you ever seen such detailed beauty UNDERNEATH stairs? 
Mozartfest concerts are held in the splendid Banquet Hall, 18th century chandeliers glittering above, 
ornate Georgian decorative elements and original royal portraits complete the elegant chamber, 
a perfect venue for the Mozartfest. We close another wonderful day with Schubert, Brahms, Ravel and Franck from a talented piano-viola duo.
by Anne Woodyard | Dec 8, 2015 | Bath, classical music, England
Saturday & Sunday, November 14-15, 2015
Bath and Wells, England
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
We’re looking ahead to Spring – Aix en Provence for the Easter Festival.
Our guests, a delightful couple, Stan & Elaine, arrive from London, settle into their lovely room at the Queensberry, then meet us in the lobby for an introductory stroll around Bath – 
tomorrow morning we’ll have a full-blown tour of this fascinating city.
After an early dinner, we’re back at Bath Abbey for the first concert of our Music and Markets Mozartfest week – The Sixteen. 
This renowned orchestral and vocal ensemble, specializing in early music, is the traditional opening Saturday performance at the Abbey. With delicate period instruments accompanying, the pure tones of Monteverdi, a late 16th century Italian composer, soar to those exquisite arches high above us. 
Sunday morning we’re back again, ready to discover Bath with a Mayor’s Guide. With a few minutes before the tour begins, we usher Stan and Elaine into the Pump Room for a view of the Roman Baths below,
and the glasses, awaiting the brave souls who will “take the waters”. Beau Nash, the arbiter of taste in Bath’s heydey, watches over the elegant salon.
The popular Mayor of Bath’s Guides Tours are an institution in Bath, and each of the guides we’ve listened to through the years have an obvious love for their city along with an in-depth knowledge. 
As Andrew, our guide this morning, talks about the baths and the Romans the Abbey bells peal out a welcome to Sunday service.
I’m happy to see some lingering tinges of fall as we walk through the town – autumn remains my favorite season! 
From the lower town, by the Abbey and the river, we ascend to the upper town, where we’re staying. One of Bath’s most famous landmarks, The Crescent, 
was designed by architect John Wood for the city townhouse dwellers to feel that the countryside was at their door, and the wide expanse of green below the crescent still gives that sensation today. 
From Bath we depart for “England’s smallest city”, delightful little Wells. 
The Crown, right in the market square beside the cathedral, is just the place for a traditional Sunday Roast, 
and we eat our fill
before walking to Evensong – we’re JUST in time! And today, rather than the usual boys choir, sweet young voices of girls sing the psalms and hymns as we sit with them in the beautifully carved choir,
intricate tapestries and needlework adorning the seats. 
Built in Early English Gothic style between the 11 and 1400s, the Cathedral is filled with awe-inspiring craftsmanship, such as the massive and unique scissor arches stabilizing the center after an earthquake left it weakened. Although this video is too dark – by the time Evensong is over at 4 the short winter day is dimming – I think you’ll enjoy the organ resounding in this splendid space. 
The Chapter House, up a well-worn stairway,
is another don’t-miss part of this ancient beauty. Built in 1306, this meeting place for church affairs would have been an inspiring place to conduct business, with it’s delicate tracery and vaults rippling across the ceiling, supported by a central pillar that’s been likened to a giant palm tree, spreading it’s foliage above. 
Returning to Bath in time to prepare for the evening’s events, we walk to the Assembly Rooms, 
where the Belcea Quartet is expanded with Adrian Brendel’s masterful cello added for Schubert’s String Quintet in C – 
breathtakingly beautiful music to complete our Sunday.
by Anne Woodyard | Dec 5, 2015 | Bath, England
Thursday & Friday, November 12-13, 2015
Southwest England
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you!
We’re looking ahead to Spring – Aix en Provence for the Easter Festival.
So we’ve landed at Heathrow, picked up a car, and are driving along, on our way to tonight’s destination, the giggly-named Limpley Stoke, when we both snap our heads to the right – is that…?!? Well, yes, it is! 
Who knew we’d drive right by Stonehenge on our way!
Before checking into our apartment in Bath for the Mozartfest tour week, we’re spending tonight at a Best Western in this village south of Bath…and like so many of the European Best Westerns we’ve stayed in, this one is a delightful example of a local establishment, unique to the country – a sprawling manor house in inviting gardens. 
When we check in, we’re upgraded to a terrace suite (thanks to being members of the BW loyalty club – we recommend joining ALL the loyalty associations, you never know what you’ll get!) and ooh and aah at the comfortable English country style of the room and the gorgeous view from the terrace. As often happens when arriving from a post-flight drive, we’re too late for lunch, but the amiable and helpful young man who checked us in suggests a meal in the hotel bar – perfect! 
We can certainly recommend the charming Best Western Limpley Stoke!
After a quick nap we begin our pre-tour research, re-acquainting ourselves with the village of Wells, where we’ll take our guests on Sunday. After a hearty dinner in an historic pub, we stroll the grounds of the Bishop’s Palace,
then through 15th century Penniless Porch,
named for the beggars who plied their trade there, and to the soaring cathedral.
On the way to check in to our Bath apartment on Friday we spend an hour or so in Bradford-on-Avon, crossing the bridge over the Avon, 
peering into the dome-topped “lockup” where troublemakers were tossed for the night centuries ago.
Check out this inn from 1500 – a lively historic pub-with-rooms. 
On the outskirts of the historic center is a spectacular monastic tithe barn from the early 14th century, 
with entries and ceilings high enough for laden wagons to roll right in and deposit a tenth of their production as a tithe (tenth) or tax to the local Abbey.
We’ve noticed several of these dovecotes built into houses –
I wonder how old this one is?
Our Alfred Street apartment in Bath looks out over the Assembly Rooms -a perfect location, since our Music and Markets guests will be staying in the lovely Queensberry Hotel, on the other side of these historic rooms where we’ll be for several Mozartfest concerts. We drop our bags, and head out for errands – picking up our concert tickets before spending a minute in the glorious Abbey.Finding our way to Waitrose for breakfast supplies, we walk through the Corridor, a lovely old shopping gallery,
check out a Bath-seal approved chemist (a drugstore to us Americans) 
then pause to gaze at the rushing weir by Pulteney Bridge, Bath’s answer to Florence’s shop-lined Ponte Vecchio. 
We’re eager to share this beautiful town with our guests, who will arrive tomorrow!
by Anne | Oct 20, 2015 | Bath, Cotswolds, England, Uncategorized
Friday, September 25, 2015
The Southern Cotswolds, England
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you! How about an unforgettable holiday with us at New Years’ Jazz in Italy?
Surprise! Someone’s decorated the Market Hall with colorful streamers during the night! We didn’t hear a thing…stealth streamers!
After a hearty breakfast in the Tea Room downstairs, we’re on our way, making sure to take the road east of town where we’ve read that there are a bevy of thatched roof beauties. And they don’t disappoint!
I’m fascinated by the precise trim,
the designs on the roofpeak, each distinctive,
the gentle curves, which look as if they’ve been smoothed and shaped by a giant hand.
Fall is much further along here than at home in Virginia, topping the fences with brilliant berries,
draping the homes with crimson.
An undulating hedge fronting another thatched home looks like a giant about to awaken –
I can imagine a green monster rising up with a stretch!
Bibury, nearly an hour south of Chipping Campden, is another popular Cotswold village, and one that we’re including on our Bath Mozartfest Tour itinerary. With its rows of weavers cottages built in 1380, known as Arlington Row,
still lived in today, a graceful church (garlanded with roses from a recent wedding),
an inviting inn
with beautiful gardens
and a stream burbling through it all,
it’s no wonder that William Morris dubbed it the prettiest village in England.
The old inn in which we used to enjoy afternoon tea is no longer open, and a charming lady who’s decorating a window in the church
for the upcoming harvest festival recommends a place down the road.
Oh yes – Barnsley House will be perfect for our tour guests!
We’re delighted with the cozy interior – we’ll reserve the corner by the fireplace for our group!
And the gardens are an absolute wonder – 
with inviting nooks
and luscious long views – 
breathtaking!
It’s been a few years since we’ve been in Bath, so we’re re-acquainting our selves with this gracious city. Our first concert for the Mozartfest in November will be in the majestic Abbey.
And of course we’ve got to make sure that the restaurants we’d previously chosen for the tour are still good! So after a delicious dinner not far from the abbey we say goodnight to Bath – we’ll be back tomorrow!
highly recommended, as you can see!
The best way to describe us (Kirk and Anne Woodyard) is that we're interested in the stories that make the places we visit come alive.
We've visited Europe more times than we can count, learned some entertaining stories there, and met some warm and helpful people who also enjoy the wonders of music and life in Europe. Between our music-related travels, we split our time between our homes near Washington DC and in the the south of France. We look forward to sharing these stories and friends and experiences with you.