by Anne | Oct 29, 2015 | Mexico, Mexico City
Saturday, October 24, 2015
Mexico City
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you! How about an unforgettable holiday with us at New Years’ Jazz in Italy?
Just one day for a first-time visit to Mexico City? Are you crazy? Well here’s why: Some of you may be familiar with the term ” mileage run”. Those of us who need to maintain our status on an airline sometimes need a few thousand more miles in a calendar year to do so. So we look for a bargain fare, and if it can be turned into a little romantic getaway, why not?!
We’ve got about 36 hours in Mexico, and hit the ground running, grabbing a nearly-midnight bite to eat (and café con leche mixed at the table – how much coffee, señor?) at El Popular (open 24 hours) after checking in to the historic center Hampton Inn (never saw one like THIS before – it’s in a renovated Augustinian convent from the 1800s!). 
With its beautiful tiled corridors surrounding a stained-glass roofed atrium, it’s walking distance from everything we want to see this weekend. Add the fast and free WIFI, an extensive buffet breakfast (also included) and friendly helpful staff, and it’s the perfect choice.
Just a couple of blocks walk on Saturday morning and we’re at the Zocalo,
the huge square that, since the time of the Aztecs, has been the center of government and worship. When we asked about walking around last night, the hotel staff said it was safe, and that there were policemen all around – and yes, there certainly were, on every block. Today we see that impressive police presence again – in fact so many anti-riot shielded men in front of the ceramic – adorned (each one honoring a Spanish explorer)
federal district buildings, along with a large paddy wagon by the square, that we ask one of them if they’re expecting trouble. No, we’re told, this is just normal security!
The side of the cathedral is as beautiful, if not more so, than the front, 
and the modern sculptures (see that upside-down profile?) in front are an intriguing contrast.
Just beyond, we walk along a rainbow row of buildings
to see the ruins of the Templo Mayor, the Aztec temple begun in the 1300s. If you have just one day in Mexico City, how terrific to have THIS weather! 
We want to get to the other side, where we can look down on the site from El Mayor, and as we walk down the street by the Palacio Nacional, we’re distracted by the gardens visible beyond, and the very short line of people awaiting entrance – let’s stop here first!
Abundant with succulents, agave, 
and bougainvillea and poinsettia TREES (not just bushes or plants in this climate!),
the gardens, with traces of structures from the time of Hernán Cortés (the Spanish conquistador who overthrew the Aztec empire in the early 1500s)
lead us to the main courtyard,
and the famed Diego Rivera murals surrounding the palace stairway. From the Aztec beginnings on the right
to pre-World-War II (a pensive Frida Kahlo watching the action),
the History of Mexico is portrayed in brilliant color.
Thoughtful, we continue around the remains of Aztec rule to the rooftop perch of El Mayor, where we pause for coffee-with-a-view
of the pyramids below. 
Passing one street vendor after another, 
we resist temptation as we fit in a bit more sightseeing before lunch.
Casa de Azulejos (House of Tiles), an 18th century palace covered in the blue and white tiles of Puebla, 
houses one of the first Sanborns (a department store-restaurant chain) in the country. The beautiful tilework continues inside,
where a gracious courtyard bustles with the Saturday lunch crowd. 
We’re just looking, gracias. Our lunch destination is Los Girasoles (the sunflowers), 
where we’re seated by an upstairs window,
with several friendly and knowledgeable waiters ready to bring us everything we could want. Kirk bravely tried the house tequila combo, 
and as he shakes his head in shock after each pepper-topped sip, I abstain from even a tongue-touch of the fiery stuff. We skip the pre-Hispanic delicacies of escamoles (ant eggs) and gusanos de Maguey (chilied worms) and order an array of small plates from around Mexico – shrimp tacos from Veracruz,
Blue Quesadillas stuffed with squash flowers – Oaxaca, 
banana and pork filled tortillas,
and Yucatan suckling-pig flautas – served with – you won’t believe this – dog’s nose relish (which was actually delicious)! As we savor each marvelous bite a breeze flutters the tablecloth, and strains of an impressive street band (the vocalist sounds like Joe Bonamassa!) entertain us.
Walking towards the Alameda, a huge park that’s been an important center of town since Aztec times, we pass traditional dancers – the jingles on the guy’s leg (not very visible, sorry) remind us of the Morris Dancers we heard in Bath last month,
and the post office. No big deal, right? Well, it’s not just any old post office, but the Palacio Postal, a delectable example of Renaissance Revival design – 
one of the grand imitations of European architecture from the time of Porfiorio Diaz’ long dictatorship (1876-1911). Wow – what a place to mail a letter!
Back to the Zocalo, we walk through the cathedral with its massive gold altars, 
crowds of wedding guests in evening dress waiting outside the doors,
then stroll through neighborhoods, some filled with outdoor markets, the vendors hawking their wares, some quiet, with tree-lined lanes and tilting belltowers – from the ’85 earthquake?
and are drawn in by the scent of baking to the busiest bakery we’ve ever seen – Pastelería Madrid. Candied sweet potatoes and chunks of pumpkin, anyone?
A busy tostada stand by the entry is ready to fortify customers for the job ahead, as the shelf-lined walls go on and on, from one room to another, and patrons carrying trays carefully choose their pastries,
then bring them to a counter where efficient uniformed staff wrap them up 
– I can imagine them on the Sunday breakfast tables tomorrow, a little Day of the Dead goodie alongside. 
It’s been a tasting tour of Mexico City – for the eyes as well as the mouth – and we finish off with a courtyard dinner at Puntarena Centro,
seated by a vertical wall of greenery. 
One of the most delicious tostadas I’ve ever tasted, laden with sashimi tuna and fried leeks,
along with fabulous shrimp and avocado tacos,
makes me eager to return for more Mexican delights – 36 hours is just enough to tempt us to come back!
by Anne | Oct 24, 2015 | Uncategorized
Sunday, September 27, 2015
Lacock & Avebury, England
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you! How about an unforgettable holiday with us at New Years’ Jazz in Italy?
On the way to Heathrow this afternoon, but before we fly across the Atlantic we’ll step back a century or two in the delightful villages of Lacock and Avebury. But first, I neglected to mention that we fit in yet ANOTHER cream tea yesterday, while in Bath …. and my mouth waters just to look at this again!
One of our day trips on the November tour will be to these evocative hamlets, both of which have been used as backdrops for several BBC period pieces and even Harry Potter movies.
Strolling through the quiet Sunday morning lanes, we admire solid stone homes,
built to last, an inviting bakery,
and check out this roof beam – almost to the ground!
As we approach the creeper-draped church we hear an organist practicing inside, 
accompanied by bleating sheep in the field beyond. The ruddy Virginia Creeper seems to be taking over, 
like kudzu on a Georgia roadside! Not so in this elegant garden, with topiaries of a woman and a whale.
Near the George Inn (established in the 1300s!),
where we’ll have lunch during our tour is another autumn adorned beauty, 
and down the street a horse looks ready to make a phone call.
On our way to Avebury we pass through neighborhoods of thatched beauties,
each one unique.
These homeowners pay a hefty price to carry on this ancient craft…the average cost of rethatching a four bedroom cottage is around 20,000 pounds, but a good thatch should last 20 years. Aren’t you glad they contribute to the beauty of England this way?
“The only pub in the world inside a stone circle” in Avebury is in the process of rethatching 
–it’ll be done when we return for a pint in November. Prehistoric artisans built a huge stone circle, so large that you could only tell it was a circle from the air, with two smaller circles inside.
The smaller circles are still visible,
but many of the stones of the massive circle have been removed through the centuries. Are you getting tired of thatched cottages yet? I’m not! Here’s one with a little fringe on the edges,
and another with windows peeking out…
oh I want to stay in one someday!
But now it’s time to fly home….so glad we’ll be back soon!
by Anne | Oct 22, 2015 | Uncategorized
Saturday, September 26, 2015
Bath, England
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you! How about an unforgettable holiday with us at New Years’ Jazz in Italy?
Yes indeed, Bath is bustling – it’s always a challenge to drive in and out of this popular town (we’re staying about an hour north, in Cirencester), and today, Saturday, it’s bursting with entertaining Morris Dancers everywhere we go!
It’s an annual competition, and from one plaza or sidewalk to another, colorful, smiling, brightly costumed dancers hop and twirl to the rhythm of sticks or cheery accordion.
I’d love to keep watching – but we’re meeting a Mayor’s Guide in front of the Abbey for a tour of the town.
Although we’ve toured Bath before, it’s been a while, and we thoroughly enjoy our guide, David, and his tales entwined with the fascinating history of Bath, so lovely with lush flowers at this time of year. 
From the Roman Baths
to the golden stone architectural beauty of the Circus, 
we take it all in – and appreciate the gorgeous sunny day too! 
And we like our guide so much that we invite him to lunch, along with his wife! After a quick peek at the Pump Room, 
we meet Brenda outside, walk to nearby Bistro Barrique, and since the weather continues warm and beautiful, sit in the courtyard. 
A lunch special of 3 tapas and a glass of wine sounds so good that we ask the chef to choose his best for the four of us, and the table fills with delicious bites. 
This wonderful couple have an in-depth knowledge of the city, and have lots of good ideas for our upcoming Bath Mozartfest tour in November. We give them a ride home to their lovely townhouse, admire their sleek greyhound 
and marvelous garden, 
and leave with an invitation for us and our Music and Markets guests for dinner when we return – oh what a special evening that will be!
by Anne | Oct 20, 2015 | Bath, Cotswolds, England, Uncategorized
Friday, September 25, 2015
The Southern Cotswolds, England
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you! How about an unforgettable holiday with us at New Years’ Jazz in Italy?
Surprise! Someone’s decorated the Market Hall with colorful streamers during the night! We didn’t hear a thing…stealth streamers!
After a hearty breakfast in the Tea Room downstairs, we’re on our way, making sure to take the road east of town where we’ve read that there are a bevy of thatched roof beauties. And they don’t disappoint!
I’m fascinated by the precise trim,
the designs on the roofpeak, each distinctive,
the gentle curves, which look as if they’ve been smoothed and shaped by a giant hand.
Fall is much further along here than at home in Virginia, topping the fences with brilliant berries,
draping the homes with crimson.
An undulating hedge fronting another thatched home looks like a giant about to awaken –
I can imagine a green monster rising up with a stretch!
Bibury, nearly an hour south of Chipping Campden, is another popular Cotswold village, and one that we’re including on our Bath Mozartfest Tour itinerary. With its rows of weavers cottages built in 1380, known as Arlington Row,
still lived in today, a graceful church (garlanded with roses from a recent wedding),
an inviting inn
with beautiful gardens
and a stream burbling through it all,
it’s no wonder that William Morris dubbed it the prettiest village in England.
The old inn in which we used to enjoy afternoon tea is no longer open, and a charming lady who’s decorating a window in the church
for the upcoming harvest festival recommends a place down the road.
Oh yes – Barnsley House will be perfect for our tour guests!
We’re delighted with the cozy interior – we’ll reserve the corner by the fireplace for our group!
And the gardens are an absolute wonder – 
with inviting nooks
and luscious long views – 
breathtaking!
It’s been a few years since we’ve been in Bath, so we’re re-acquainting our selves with this gracious city. Our first concert for the Mozartfest in November will be in the majestic Abbey.
And of course we’ve got to make sure that the restaurants we’d previously chosen for the tour are still good! So after a delicious dinner not far from the abbey we say goodnight to Bath
– we’ll be back tomorrow!
by Anne | Oct 17, 2015 | Cotswolds, cream tea, England
Thursday, September 24, 2015
The Cotswolds, England
Interested in a Music and Markets Tour? We’d love to hear from you! How about an unforgettable holiday with us at New Years’ Jazz in Italy?
It’s another glorious day in the English countryside…sun filters into the sitting room,
beckoning us to the gardens beyond…and just in case, a plethora of wellies right by the front door can keep our feet dry in the dewy grass.
Through a stone arch, the path winds down beside the manicured lawns to a lake, but we’re headed first out the back door to explore Upper Slaughter..
St. Peter’s church tops the town, with a unique mix of architectural styles – it’s obviously been modified through the centuries.
Inside it’s simple and peaceful, with an impressive beamed and vaulted ceiling.
I’d love to watch a crew of ringers peal the bells above! How many people does it take, I wonder…does each rope have a ringer, or is it a one-person job?
Down the hill we walk, passing a pretty front yard
, and a re-purposed red phone booth still jaunty beside a stone cottage. It now houses a defibrillator!
A sign by the road warns “unsuitable for vehicles” – but this ford looks pretty harmless to us. We cross the narrow walking bridge beside it.
A public walkway meanders between Upper and Lower Slaughter, taking us through a field with a good view back towards Lords of the Manor.
Through woods, grassy meadows and quirky gates we go, 
and arrive at Lower Slaughter in about 15 minutes.
The old mill is the village’s claim to fame,and now houses a couple of crafty shops, 
and a courtyard of golden stone garden objects.
A bit bigger than Upper Slaughter, the village is filled with pretty homes and gardens,
this one with reds of every shade, 
gently arched bridges,
and tall-steepled St. Mary’s.
We’re heading further north today, through rolling fields crisscrossed with drystone walls,
to the bustling village of Chipping Campden,
where we’re spending the night in a cute B & B over a tearoom overlooking the beautiful market hall. 
Built in the early 1600s, the market’s floor sure shows its age!
Pauline, the founder of Slow Europe, who now lives in the Cotswolds, recommends the Badger Tea Rooms for their scones baked in an Aga 
– I love their crisp outside and tender inside, and the cream, of course, is delectable! Two days, two cream teas…not my usual diet, that’s for sure!
The over one hundred mile Cotswold Way, a walking path, begins here and goes all the way to Bath.
Much larger than the hamlets we’ve been in earlier today, Chipping Campden boasts several good tea rooms and pubs, charming thatched cottages,
many beautiful homes,
and a majestic “Wool Church” 
so called since it was reconstructed in grand style by the wealthy wool merchants of medieval times. We still see lots of sheep on the hillsides, but I don’t think they make their masters so much money as they did way back then! The graveyard beside the church slopes down to a ruined manor, all that’s left is a many-towered entry.
We stop by the Lygon Arms to make dinner reservations,returning later for a hearty meal and even heartier conversations by the locals.
Last night, too, we enjoyed eavesdropping on the teasing banter by the bar – it’s obvious that these pubs are a nightly stop for many.
The town seems to glow as we walk back to our room…
good night, Chipping Campden!
With its beautiful tiled corridors surrounding a stained-glass roofed atrium, it’s walking distance from everything we want to see this weekend. Add the fast and free WIFI, an extensive buffet breakfast (also included) and friendly helpful staff, and it’s the perfect choice.
lead us to the main courtyard,
The best way to describe us (Kirk and Anne Woodyard) is that we're interested in the stories that make the places we visit come alive.
We've visited Europe more times than we can count, learned some entertaining stories there, and met some warm and helpful people who also enjoy the wonders of music and life in Europe. Between our music-related travels, we split our time between our homes near Washington DC and in the the south of France. We look forward to sharing these stories and friends and experiences with you.